US Top 50 by Reduced Spire Measure

See the Main Spire Page or the Explanation Page for general notes on spire measure.

In this table, a few notable peaks do not appear at all; e.g. Mt. Bona, one of the few 5000m peaks in Alaska. Bona suffers from being very close to the much steeper University Peak and Aello Peak. Some of these dropouts allow a few peaks to appear which are not as high in SM but which are fairly independent, including some in the lower 48 such as Mount Adams and Hozomeen Mountain in Washington State. P8351 in the Revelations and the two P8010's (one in the SW Alaska Range, the other just east of the Copper River in the Chugach Range) comprise the unnamed peaks (as far as I know) in the top 50. I am still trying to find ascent information for some of the peaks.

In the table below, "Location" gives the name of the range in which the peak lies.
"SM" is the spire measure in meters (click here for explanation of the units of SM).
"RSM" is the reduced spire measure in meters.
Elevation is also in meters.
FA is first ascent, FWA is first winter ascent, FS is first solo, SA is second ascent.
If an unrecorded first ascent is a good possibility, I use "FRA" for first recorded ascent instead of FA.
A single asterisk refers to the notes below the table.
I have highlighted the non-Alaskan peaks in green.
Peak names are linked to information pages; many of these are Wikipedia articles, which often contain further links to sites such as the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia (for border peaks) or to Topozone. A few peaks are linked simply to a Topozone map.

Peak Name Location SM RSM Elev Ascents People

Mount Saint Elias St. Elias 1451 1451 5489 FA 1897
FWA 1996
SA 1945 FA Luigi Amadeo di Savoia (Duke of Abruzzi), Vittorio Sella, et al.
FWA D Briggs G Heaton, J Reichert
SA D Molenaar, C Molenaar, A Kauffman, B Kauffman, Miller, Latady, Ferris (Harvard)

Denali (Mount McKinley) Alaska 1415 1414 6194 FA 1913
FWA 1967
FS 1970 FA H Stuck, H Karstens, W Harper, (R Tatum?)
FWA A Davidson, R Genet, D Johnston
FS N Uemura

Mount Sanford Wrangell 1186 1178 4949 FA 1938 FA T Moore, B Washburn

Mount Fairweather St. Elias 1105 1097 4663 FA 1931
SA 1958 FA A Carpe, T Moore, W Ladd, A Taylor
SA Canadian Centennial Expedition

Mount Foraker Alaska 1252 1031 5304 FA 1934
FWA 1975
SA 1963 FA C Houston, T G Brown, C Waterston
FWA S Tandy, G Tandy
SA J Richardson, J Duenwald

University Peak St. Elias 992 977 4411 FA 1956
SA 1997
FA L Blumer, S Brooks, K Hart, T Kelley, G Reynolds, N Sanders
SA D Kost, P Claus, R Homberger, D Staeheli
No WA, No Solo (as of 2001)

Mount Hayes Alaska 978 969 4216 FA 1941 FA Bradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn, S Hendricks, W Shand, (H S Hall Jr, B Ferris, R Montgomery?)

Mount Augusta St. Elias 1077 954 4289 FA 1952
SA 1987 FA P Schoening et al
SA M Carlson, G Foweraker, J Marshall, D Serl

Mount Blackburn Wrangell 984 944 4996 FA 1912
FWA 1974
FA Dora Keen, G.W. Handy
FWA A Ward, G Tandy, S Tandy, J Pinamont, D Pahlke

Mount Rainier
(Liberty Cap)* Cascade 944 944 4301
(Main: 4392) FRA 1870 (Main)
FWA 1922 (")
SA 1870 (") FRA H Stevens, P Van Trump (Main)
FWA Jean Landry, Jacques Landry, J Bergues, C Perryman (")
SA S Emmons, A Wilson (")

Mount Crillon St. Elias 1033 939 3879 FA 1934
SA 1972 FA B Washburn, H A Carter
SA L Adkins, M Adkins, R Benedict, J Buckley, B Tickell

Mount Hesperus Revelation 875 870 2996 FA 1985 FA J Lesueur, K Swanson, S Spaulding

Mount Hubbard St. Elias 874 817 4576 FA 1951

FA W Wood et al

Mount Deborah Alaska 865 813 3761 FA 1954
SA 1975
FA F Beckey, H Harrer, H Meybohm
SA P Condran, M Hottman, B Okonek, D Pettigrew, P Stuart, T Wheeler

Devils Thumb Stikine Icecap 807 802 2767 FA 1947 FA F Beckey, Craig, Schmidtke

Shishaldin Volcano Aleutians 799 799 2857 FRA 1932

FA G Peterson + two partners

Redoubt Volcano Chigmit 796 791 3108 FA 1959 FA C Deehr, J Gardey, F Kennell, G Wescott

Mount Shasta Cascade 781 781 4317 FRA 1854 FA E Pearce (Pierce?) et al

Mount Wilbur St. Elias 926 780 3298 FA 1975 FA D Jones, C Gerhardt, C McKibben

Mount Salisbury St. Elias 966 760 3709 FA 1977 FA J Nelson, S Swenson, J Eberharter, G Thompson

Mount Moffit Alaska 850 750 3969 FA 1941
SA 1975
FA W Shand Jr. + one companion
SA M Sallee, D Buchanan

Iliamna Volcano Chigmit 770 746 3053 FA 1852
SA 1959
FA Russian Soldiers from Ft. Kenay
SA H Bading, E Barnes, G Erickson, P Crews

Mount Natazhat St. Elias 773 742 4095 FA 1913? (disputed)
SA 1996
FA Canadian surveyors?
SA D Hart, P Barry, H Hunt, D Lucey

Mount Russell Alaska 816 740 3557 FA 1962
SA 1972
FA Ekkerlein, Goodwin, Hennig
SA T Kensler, P Brown, J Hauck, D Jablonski, D Osborne

Mount Hood Cascade 741 734 3452 1857 FRA Chittenden, Cornell, Pittock, Wood, (Deardorff?)

Mount Drum Wrangell 807 725 3661 FA 1954

FA H Harrer, K Hart, G Schaller

Mount Huntington Alaska 902 716 3730 FA 1964
SA 1965 FA L Terray et al
SA D Roberts et al (Harvard)

Aello Peak (**)
(Twaharpies) St. Elias 883 716 4403 FA 1967 FA Benton, Boulton, Hagihara, Matsumoto, McBee, Ono, Randall, Staley

Mount Cook St. Elias 850 713 4194 FA 1953 FA T Kelley, R McGowan, T Miller, F Mohling

Grand Teton Teton 708 708 4197 FA 1898
FS 1931 FA W Owen, F Spalding, J Shive, F Peterson
FS G Exum

Mount Dickey Alaska 790 702 2909 FA 1955
FWA 1979
FA D Fisher, B Washburn
FWA 1979 R Cowles, B Okonek

Lituya Mountain St. Elias 950 691 3634 FA 1962 FA S Arighi, D Bohn, D Chappelear, H Flachsmann, A Maki, M Mushkin, L Nielsen

Mount Miller St. Elias 715 690 3266 FA 1996

FA C Sassara, R Homberger, R Ruesh, P Claus, C Buhler

Mount Steller Chugach 702 677 3203 FA 1990 FA B Jacobs, G Anderson, M Bowling, R Wesson

Mount Cleveland Livingstone
(Glacier NP) 671 671 3190 FRA 1924 FA N Clyde + 19 other Sierra Club members

Mount Baker Cascade 674 670 3285 FA 1868 FA E T Coleman, J Tennant, D Ogilvy, T Stratton

Pavlof Volcano Aleutian 670 666 2515 FA ??? FA ???

P8351 Revelation 677 665 2545 FA ??? FA ???

Isanotski Peak Aleutian 757 661 2446 FA ??? FA ???

Mooses Tooth Alaska 754 661 3150 FA ??? FA ???

Devils Paw Coast 658 656 2616 FA ??? FA ???

Mount Marcus Baker Chugach 663 652 4016 FA 1938 FA N Bright, N Dyrenfurth, P Gabriel, B Washburn

Mount Hunter Alaska 898 651 4442 FA 1954
FWA 1980
FS 1978 FA F Beckey, H Harrer, H Meybohm
FWA V Tejas, G Bocarde, P Denkewalter
FS J M Waterman

Mount Adams Cascade 673 647 3742 FRA 1854
FWA 1937? FRA A G Aiken, E J Allen, (A Burge?), (Shaw?)
FWA J Daniel, W Liebenstritt

P8010 SW Alaska Range 649 645 2435 UNCLIMBED (?)

Hozomeen Mountain
(South Peak)* North Cascades 643 640 2440
(Main: 2450) FA (South) 1947
FA (Main) 1904
FA (South) F Beckey, M Marcus, J O'Neil, K Prestrud, H Staley, C Welsh
FA (Main) S Tatum, G E Loudon, Jr.

Spurr (NE)* Tordrillo 648 639 2760 FA 1960 (Main Summit) FA A Antonson, H Bading, B Bailey, C Metzger

P8010 Eastern Chugach (above Copper River) 651 638 2435 FA ??? FA ???

Mount Neacola Neacola 643 636 2873 FA 1991

FA J Garrett, L Glick, K Harvey (with F Beckey as "spiritual leader")

Middle Triple Peak Kichatna 644 634 2693 FA 1976
SA 1976
FA R McLean, C Porter
SA D Black, A Embick, M Graber, A Long

Peak Name	Location	SM	RSM	Elev	Ascents	People
Mount Saint Elias	St. Elias	1451	1451	5489	FA 1897 FWA 1996 SA 1945	FA Luigi Amadeo di Savoia (Duke of Abruzzi), Vittorio Sella, et al. FWA D Briggs G Heaton, J Reichert SA D Molenaar, C Molenaar, A Kauffman, B Kauffman, Miller, Latady, Ferris (Harvard)
Denali (Mount McKinley)	Alaska	1415	1414	6194	FA 1913 FWA 1967 FS 1970	FA H Stuck, H Karstens, W Harper, (R Tatum?) FWA A Davidson, R Genet, D Johnston FS N Uemura
Mount Sanford	Wrangell	1186	1178	4949	FA 1938	FA T Moore, B Washburn
Mount Fairweather	St. Elias	1105	1097	4663	FA 1931 SA 1958	FA A Carpe, T Moore, W Ladd, A Taylor SA Canadian Centennial Expedition
Mount Foraker	Alaska	1252	1031	5304	FA 1934 FWA 1975 SA 1963	FA C Houston, T G Brown, C Waterston FWA S Tandy, G Tandy SA J Richardson, J Duenwald
University Peak	St. Elias	992	977	4411	FA 1956 SA 1997	FA L Blumer, S Brooks, K Hart, T Kelley, G Reynolds, N Sanders SA D Kost, P Claus, R Homberger, D Staeheli No WA, No Solo (as of 2001)
Mount Hayes	Alaska	978	969	4216	FA 1941	FA Bradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn, S Hendricks, W Shand, (H S Hall Jr, B Ferris, R Montgomery?)
Mount Augusta	St. Elias	1077	954	4289	FA 1952 SA 1987	FA P Schoening et al SA M Carlson, G Foweraker, J Marshall, D Serl
Mount Blackburn	Wrangell	984	944	4996	FA 1912 FWA 1974	FA Dora Keen, G.W. Handy FWA A Ward, G Tandy, S Tandy, J Pinamont, D Pahlke
Mount Rainier (Liberty Cap)*	Cascade	944	944	4301 (Main: 4392)	FRA 1870 (Main) FWA 1922 (") SA 1870 (")	FRA H Stevens, P Van Trump (Main) FWA Jean Landry, Jacques Landry, J Bergues, C Perryman (") SA S Emmons, A Wilson (")
Mount Crillon	St. Elias	1033	939	3879	FA 1934 SA 1972	FA B Washburn, H A Carter SA L Adkins, M Adkins, R Benedict, J Buckley, B Tickell
Mount Hesperus	Revelation	875	870	2996	FA 1985	FA J Lesueur, K Swanson, S Spaulding
Mount Hubbard	St. Elias	874	817	4576	FA 1951	FA W Wood et al
Mount Deborah	Alaska	865	813	3761	FA 1954 SA 1975	FA F Beckey, H Harrer, H Meybohm SA P Condran, M Hottman, B Okonek, D Pettigrew, P Stuart, T Wheeler
Devils Thumb	Stikine Icecap	807	802	2767	FA 1947	FA F Beckey, Craig, Schmidtke
Shishaldin Volcano	Aleutians	799	799	2857	FRA 1932	FA G Peterson + two partners
Redoubt Volcano	Chigmit	796	791	3108	FA 1959	FA C Deehr, J Gardey, F Kennell, G Wescott
Mount Shasta	Cascade	781	781	4317	FRA 1854	FA E Pearce (Pierce?) et al
Mount Wilbur	St. Elias	926	780	3298	FA 1975	FA D Jones, C Gerhardt, C McKibben
Mount Salisbury	St. Elias	966	760	3709	FA 1977	FA J Nelson, S Swenson, J Eberharter, G Thompson
Mount Moffit	Alaska	850	750	3969	FA 1941 SA 1975	FA W Shand Jr. + one companion SA M Sallee, D Buchanan
Iliamna Volcano	Chigmit	770	746	3053	FA 1852 SA 1959	FA Russian Soldiers from Ft. Kenay SA H Bading, E Barnes, G Erickson, P Crews
Mount Natazhat	St. Elias	773	742	4095	FA 1913? (disputed) SA 1996	FA Canadian surveyors? SA D Hart, P Barry, H Hunt, D Lucey
Mount Russell	Alaska	816	740	3557	FA 1962 SA 1972	FA Ekkerlein, Goodwin, Hennig SA T Kensler, P Brown, J Hauck, D Jablonski, D Osborne
Mount Hood	Cascade	741	734	3452	1857	FRA Chittenden, Cornell, Pittock, Wood, (Deardorff?)
Mount Drum	Wrangell	807	725	3661	FA 1954	FA H Harrer, K Hart, G Schaller
Mount Huntington	Alaska	902	716	3730	FA 1964 SA 1965	FA L Terray et al SA D Roberts et al (Harvard)
Aello Peak (**) (Twaharpies)	St. Elias	883	716	4403	FA 1967	FA Benton, Boulton, Hagihara, Matsumoto, McBee, Ono, Randall, Staley
Mount Cook	St. Elias	850	713	4194	FA 1953	FA T Kelley, R McGowan, T Miller, F Mohling
Grand Teton	Teton	708	708	4197	FA 1898 FS 1931	FA W Owen, F Spalding, J Shive, F Peterson FS G Exum
Mount Dickey	Alaska	790	702	2909	FA 1955 FWA 1979	FA D Fisher, B Washburn FWA 1979 R Cowles, B Okonek
Lituya Mountain	St. Elias	950	691	3634	FA 1962	FA S Arighi, D Bohn, D Chappelear, H Flachsmann, A Maki, M Mushkin, L Nielsen
Mount Miller	St. Elias	715	690	3266	FA 1996	FA C Sassara, R Homberger, R Ruesh, P Claus, C Buhler
Mount Steller	Chugach	702	677	3203	FA 1990	FA B Jacobs, G Anderson, M Bowling, R Wesson
Mount Cleveland	Livingstone (Glacier NP)	671	671	3190	FRA 1924	FA N Clyde + 19 other Sierra Club members
Mount Baker	Cascade	674	670	3285	FA 1868	FA E T Coleman, J Tennant, D Ogilvy, T Stratton
Pavlof Volcano	Aleutian	670	666	2515	FA ???	FA ???
P8351	Revelation	677	665	2545	FA ???	FA ???
Isanotski Peak	Aleutian	757	661	2446	FA ???	FA ???
Mooses Tooth	Alaska	754	661	3150	FA ???	FA ???
Devils Paw	Coast	658	656	2616	FA ???	FA ???
Mount Marcus Baker	Chugach	663	652	4016	FA 1938	FA N Bright, N Dyrenfurth, P Gabriel, B Washburn
Mount Hunter	Alaska	898	651	4442	FA 1954 FWA 1980 FS 1978	FA F Beckey, H Harrer, H Meybohm FWA V Tejas, G Bocarde, P Denkewalter FS J M Waterman
Mount Adams	Cascade	673	647	3742	FRA 1854 FWA 1937?	FRA A G Aiken, E J Allen, (A Burge?), (Shaw?) FWA J Daniel, W Liebenstritt
P8010	SW Alaska Range	649	645	2435	UNCLIMBED (?)
Hozomeen Mountain (South Peak)*	North Cascades	643	640	2440 (Main: 2450)	FA (South) 1947 FA (Main) 1904	FA (South) F Beckey, M Marcus, J O'Neil, K Prestrud, H Staley, C Welsh FA (Main) S Tatum, G E Loudon, Jr.
Spurr (NE)*	Tordrillo	648	639	2760	FA 1960 (Main Summit)	FA A Antonson, H Bading, B Bailey, C Metzger
P8010	Eastern Chugach (above Copper River)	651	638	2435	FA ???	FA ???
Mount Neacola	Neacola	643	636	2873	FA 1991	FA J Garrett, L Glick, K Harvey (with F Beckey as "spiritual leader")
Middle Triple Peak	Kichatna	644	634	2693	FA 1976 SA 1976	FA R McLean, C Porter SA D Black, A Embick, M Graber, A Long

(*) General Note: the Spire Measure of a peak is calculated from a reference point on the peak which may not be the main (highest) summit. Instead the reference point is chosen to give the best SM, i.e. it is the point on the peak with the "most impressive view." It is also usually a harder climb than the main summit. In the following cases this best reference point is quite different from the main summit:

Rainier: Liberty Cap is the Northernmost peak on the broad top of Rainier. It is fairly pointy and stands atop the Willis Wall (the premier alpine North Face in the lower 48) and the Sunset Amphitheater, also a steep face. (In the picture, it is the apparent summit.) By contrast Columbia Crest, the main summit, is gentle and sits well away from any steep face.
The North (Main) Peak of Hozomeen is slightly higher than the South Peak. However the South Peak is significantly steeper; in fact it has the steepest North Face of any peak in the Northwest.
For Mount Spurr the best reference point is P9100+, about 6km NE of the main summit. It is quite a bit lower than the main summit but is much steeper.

In some of these cases I have given ascent data for both the main peak and for the optimal reference point.

There are a few other cases in the table where the best reference point is not exactly at the main summit, but is not far away, and I have not made any special notation of these.

SOURCES/ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

See the Main Spire Page for general acknowledgements.

Much of the ascent data is from the American Alpine Journal. I got great information from the American Alpine Club Library, where they used the AAJ, the Canadian Alpine Journal, and the book Alaska : A Climbing Guide by Michael Wood and Colby Coombs, published by Mountaineers Books in 2001.

The books High Alaska by Jonathan Waterman and Mt. McKinley by Fred Beckey were quite helpful, as was personal communication from Steve Gruhn. I also found a lot of information on www.skimountaineer.com and www.mcak.org (the Mountaineering Club of Alaska site).

Back to the Main Spire Page Back to the Lists Page

Any comments or questions are very welcome:

metzler (at) aa (dot) edu