Non-arctic US and Canada Top 50 by Reduced Spire Measure

See the Main Spire Page or the Explanation Page for general notes on spire measure and reduced spire measure.

(In this table I restrict myself to non-arctic US and Canada mainly because I do not yet have good maps or data for Baffin Island and the other Arctic islands of Canada. Baffin is likely to have some peaks and/or features which would make this list.)

In the table below, "Location" gives the name of the range in which the peak lies.
"SM" is the spire measure in meters (click here for explanation of the units of SM).
"RSM" is the reduced spire measure in meters.
Elevation is also in meters.
FA is first ascent, FWA is first winter ascent, FS is first solo, SA is second ascent.
If an unrecorded first ascent is a good possibility, I use "FRA" for first recorded ascent instead of FA.
A single asterisk refers to the notes below the table.
I have highlighted the Contiguous US peaks in green and (solely) Canadian peaks in red.
Click on a peak name to see a picture. (This is usually a link to another site; a (**) indicates that the picture is not exactly the peak indicated, but close. For a few peaks the link goes to a topo map because I could find no picture on the web.)

Rank Peak Name Location SM RSM Elev Ascents People

1 St. Elias St. Elias 1451 1451 5489 FA 1897
FWA 1996
SA 1945 FA Luigi Amadeo di Savoia (Duke of Abruzzi), Vittorio Sella, et al.
FWA D Briggs G Heaton, J Reichert
SA D Molenaar, C Molenaar, A Kauffman, B Kauffman, Miller, Latady, Ferris (Harvard)

2 Denali (McKinley) Alaska 1415 1414 6194 FA 1913
FWA 1967
FS 1970 FA H Stuck, H Karstens, W Harper, (R Tatum?)
FWA A Davidson, R Genet, D Johnston
FS N Uemura

3 Logan St. Elias 1276 1199 5959 FA 1925 FA A. MacCarthy, H. Lambar, W. Foster, N. Read

4 Sanford Wrangell 1186 1180 4949 FA 1938 FA T Moore, B Washburn

5 Fairweather St. Elias 1105 1097 4663 FA 1931
SA 1958 FA A Carpe, T Moore, W Ladd, A Taylor
SA Canadian Centennial Expedition

6 Foraker Alaska 1252 1031 5304 FA 1934
FWA 1975
SA 1963 FA C Houston, T G Brown, C Waterston
FWA S Tandy, G Tandy
SA J Richardson, J Duenwald

7 Vancouver (***) St. Elias 1094 1028 4785 FA 1949
SA 1967 FA W Hainsworth, N Odell, R McCarter, A Robertson, (W Wood?)
SA Alford, J V Hoeman et al

8 University Peak St. Elias 992 977 4411 FA 1956
SA 1997
FA L Blumer, S Brooks, K Hart, T Kelley, G Reynolds, N Sanders
SA D Kost, P Claus, R Homberger, D Staeheli
No WA, No Solo (as of 2001)

9 Hayes Alaska 978 969 4216 FA 1941 FA Bradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn, S Hendricks, W Shand, (H S Hall Jr, B Ferris, R Montgomery?)

10 Robson Rockies 960 960 3954 FA 1913 FA W. Foster; A. McCarthy; C. Kain

11 Augusta St. Elias 1077 954 4289 FA 1952
SA 1987 FA P Schoening et al
SA M Carlson, G Foweraker, J Marshall, D Serl

12 Blackburn Wrangell 984 944 4996 FA 1912
FWA 1974
FA Dora Keen, G.W. Handy
FWA A Ward, G Tandy, S Tandy, J Pinamont, D Pahlke

13 Rainier
(Liberty Cap)* Cascade 944 944 4301
(Main: 4392) FRA 1870 (Main)
FWA 1922 (")
SA 1870 (") FRA H Stevens, P Van Trump (Main)
FWA Jean Landry, Jacques Landry, J Bergues, C Perryman (")
SA S Emmons, A Wilson (")

14 Crillon St. Elias 1033 939 3879 FA 1934
SA 1972 FA B Washburn, H A Carter
SA L Adkins, M Adkins, R Benedict, J Buckley, B Tickell

15 Hesperus Revelation 875 870 2996 FA 1985 FA J Lesueur, K Swanson, S Spaulding

16 Lucania St. Elias 873 823 5226 FA 1937 FA B Washburn, R Bates

17 Chutine Peak Coast Range 820 820 2903 FA ??? FA ???

18 Hubbard St. Elias 874 817 4576 FA 1951

FA W Wood et al

19 Bryce Rocky 817 816 3507 FA 1902 FA J Outram, C Kaufmann

20 Deborah Alaska 865 813 3761 FA 1954
SA 1975
FA F Beckey, H Harrer, H Meybohm
SA P Condran, M Hottman, B Okonek, D Pettigrew, P Stuart, T Wheeler

21 Devil's Thumb Stikine Icecap 807 802 2767 FA 1947 (Main) FA F Beckey, Craig, Schmidtke

22 Shishaldin Aleutians 799 799 2857 FRA 1932

FA G Peterson + two partners

23 Redoubt Chigmit 796 791 3108 FA 1959 FA C Deehr, J Gardey, F Kennell, G Wescott

24 Waddington Coast 787 787 4019 FA 1936 FA F Wiessner, W House

25 Shasta Cascade 781 781 4317 FRA 1854 FA E Pearce (Pierce?) et al

26 Wilbur St. Elias 926 780 3298 FA 1975 FA D Jones, C Gerhardt, C McKibben

27 Salisbury St. Elias 966 760 3709 FA 1977 FA J Nelson, S Swenson, J Eberharter, G Thompson

28 Nusatsum Mountain Bella Coola Region 759 756 2575 FA ??? FA ???

29 Moffit Alaska 850 750 3969 FA 1941
SA 1975
FA W Shand Jr. + one companion
SA M Sallee, D Buchanan

30 Columbia Rocky 784 748 3747 FA 1902 FA J Outram, C Kaufmann

31 Iliamna Chigmit 770 746 3053 FA 1852
SA 1959
FA Russian Soldiers from Ft. Kenay
SA H Bading, E Barnes, G Erickson, P Crews

32 Natazhat St. Elias 773 742 4095 FA 1913? (disputed)
SA 1996
FA Canadian surveyors?
SA D Hart, P Barry, H Hunt, D Lucey

33 Russell Alaska 816 740 3557 FA 1962
SA 1972
FA Ekkerlein, Goodwin, Hennig
SA T Kensler, P Brown, J Hauck, D Jablonski, D Osborne

34 Hood Cascade 741 734 3452 1857 FRA Chittenden, Cornell, Pittock, Wood, (Deardorff?)

35 King Peak St. Elias 937 729 5173 FA 1952 FA K. Hart; E. Thayer

36 Drum Wrangell 807 725 3661 FA 1954

FA H Harrer, K Hart, G Schaller

37 Monarch Mtn Coast 734 722 3555 FA 1936 FA H S Hall Jr, H Fuhrer

38 Mount Bute Homathko Icefield 728 717 2810 FA ??? FA ???

39 Huntington Alaska 902 716 3730 FA 1964
SA 1965 FA L Terray et al
SA D Roberts et al (Harvard)

40 Aello Peak (**)
(Twaharpies) St. Elias 883 716 4403 FA 1967 FA Benton, Boulton, Hagihara, Matsumoto, McBee, Ono, Randall, Staley

41 Cook St. Elias 850 713 4194 FA 1953 FA T Kelley, R McGowan, T Miller, F Mohling

42 Grand Teton Teton 708 708 4197 FA 1898
FS 1931 FA W Owen, F Spalding, J Shive, F Peterson
FS G Exum

43 Dickey Alaska 790 702 2909 FA 1955
FWA 1979
FA D Fisher, B Washburn
FWA 1979 R Cowles, B Okonek

44 Stupendous Mountain Bella Coola Region 753 698 2682 FA ??? FA ???

45 Tusk Peak Rockies 704 693 3360 FA 1927 FA J DeLaittre, W MacLaurin, A Ostheimer

46 Goodsir South Tower Rockies 700 693 3562 FA 1903 FA C Fay, H Parker, C Hasler, C Kaufmann

47 Lituya Mountain St. Elias 950 691 3634 FA 1962 FA S Arighi, D Bohn, D Chappelear, H Flachsmann, A Maki, M Mushkin, L Nielsen

48 Miller St. Elias 715 690 3266 FA 1996 FA C Sassara, R Homberger, R Ruesh, P Claus, C Buhler

49 Kshwan Mountain Coast 684 684 2240 FA ??? FA ???

50 Mount Judge Howay Garibaldi Ranges 680 680 2262 FA ??? FA ???

Rank	Peak Name	Location	SM	RSM	Elev	Ascents	People
1	St. Elias	St. Elias	1451	1451	5489	FA 1897 FWA 1996 SA 1945	FA Luigi Amadeo di Savoia (Duke of Abruzzi), Vittorio Sella, et al. FWA D Briggs G Heaton, J Reichert SA D Molenaar, C Molenaar, A Kauffman, B Kauffman, Miller, Latady, Ferris (Harvard)
2	Denali (McKinley)	Alaska	1415	1414	6194	FA 1913 FWA 1967 FS 1970	FA H Stuck, H Karstens, W Harper, (R Tatum?) FWA A Davidson, R Genet, D Johnston FS N Uemura
3	Logan	St. Elias	1276	1199	5959	FA 1925	FA A. MacCarthy, H. Lambar, W. Foster, N. Read
4	Sanford	Wrangell	1186	1180	4949	FA 1938	FA T Moore, B Washburn
5	Fairweather	St. Elias	1105	1097	4663	FA 1931 SA 1958	FA A Carpe, T Moore, W Ladd, A Taylor SA Canadian Centennial Expedition
6	Foraker	Alaska	1252	1031	5304	FA 1934 FWA 1975 SA 1963	FA C Houston, T G Brown, C Waterston FWA S Tandy, G Tandy SA J Richardson, J Duenwald
7	Vancouver (***)	St. Elias	1094	1028	4785	FA 1949 SA 1967	FA W Hainsworth, N Odell, R McCarter, A Robertson, (W Wood?) SA Alford, J V Hoeman et al
8	University Peak	St. Elias	992	977	4411	FA 1956 SA 1997	FA L Blumer, S Brooks, K Hart, T Kelley, G Reynolds, N Sanders SA D Kost, P Claus, R Homberger, D Staeheli No WA, No Solo (as of 2001)
9	Hayes	Alaska	978	969	4216	FA 1941	FA Bradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn, S Hendricks, W Shand, (H S Hall Jr, B Ferris, R Montgomery?)
10	Robson	Rockies	960	960	3954	FA 1913	FA W. Foster; A. McCarthy; C. Kain
11	Augusta	St. Elias	1077	954	4289	FA 1952 SA 1987	FA P Schoening et al SA M Carlson, G Foweraker, J Marshall, D Serl
12	Blackburn	Wrangell	984	944	4996	FA 1912 FWA 1974	FA Dora Keen, G.W. Handy FWA A Ward, G Tandy, S Tandy, J Pinamont, D Pahlke
13	Rainier (Liberty Cap)*	Cascade	944	944	4301 (Main: 4392)	FRA 1870 (Main) FWA 1922 (") SA 1870 (")	FRA H Stevens, P Van Trump (Main) FWA Jean Landry, Jacques Landry, J Bergues, C Perryman (") SA S Emmons, A Wilson (")
14	Crillon	St. Elias	1033	939	3879	FA 1934 SA 1972	FA B Washburn, H A Carter SA L Adkins, M Adkins, R Benedict, J Buckley, B Tickell
15	Hesperus	Revelation	875	870	2996	FA 1985	FA J Lesueur, K Swanson, S Spaulding
16	Lucania	St. Elias	873	823	5226	FA 1937	FA B Washburn, R Bates
17	Chutine Peak	Coast Range	820	820	2903	FA ???	FA ???
18	Hubbard	St. Elias	874	817	4576	FA 1951	FA W Wood et al
19	Bryce	Rocky	817	816	3507	FA 1902	FA J Outram, C Kaufmann
20	Deborah	Alaska	865	813	3761	FA 1954 SA 1975	FA F Beckey, H Harrer, H Meybohm SA P Condran, M Hottman, B Okonek, D Pettigrew, P Stuart, T Wheeler
21	Devil's Thumb	Stikine Icecap	807	802	2767	FA 1947 (Main)	FA F Beckey, Craig, Schmidtke
22	Shishaldin	Aleutians	799	799	2857	FRA 1932	FA G Peterson + two partners
23	Redoubt	Chigmit	796	791	3108	FA 1959	FA C Deehr, J Gardey, F Kennell, G Wescott
24	Waddington	Coast	787	787	4019	FA 1936	FA F Wiessner, W House
25	Shasta	Cascade	781	781	4317	FRA 1854	FA E Pearce (Pierce?) et al
26	Wilbur	St. Elias	926	780	3298	FA 1975	FA D Jones, C Gerhardt, C McKibben
27	Salisbury	St. Elias	966	760	3709	FA 1977	FA J Nelson, S Swenson, J Eberharter, G Thompson
28	Nusatsum Mountain	Bella Coola Region	759	756	2575	FA ???	FA ???
29	Moffit	Alaska	850	750	3969	FA 1941 SA 1975	FA W Shand Jr. + one companion SA M Sallee, D Buchanan
30	Columbia	Rocky	784	748	3747	FA 1902	FA J Outram, C Kaufmann
31	Iliamna	Chigmit	770	746	3053	FA 1852 SA 1959	FA Russian Soldiers from Ft. Kenay SA H Bading, E Barnes, G Erickson, P Crews
32	Natazhat	St. Elias	773	742	4095	FA 1913? (disputed) SA 1996	FA Canadian surveyors? SA D Hart, P Barry, H Hunt, D Lucey
33	Russell	Alaska	816	740	3557	FA 1962 SA 1972	FA Ekkerlein, Goodwin, Hennig SA T Kensler, P Brown, J Hauck, D Jablonski, D Osborne
34	Hood	Cascade	741	734	3452	1857	FRA Chittenden, Cornell, Pittock, Wood, (Deardorff?)
35	King Peak	St. Elias	937	729	5173	FA 1952	FA K. Hart; E. Thayer
36	Drum	Wrangell	807	725	3661	FA 1954	FA H Harrer, K Hart, G Schaller
37	Monarch Mtn	Coast	734	722	3555	FA 1936	FA H S Hall Jr, H Fuhrer
38	Mount Bute	Homathko Icefield	728	717	2810	FA ???	FA ???
39	Huntington	Alaska	902	716	3730	FA 1964 SA 1965	FA L Terray et al SA D Roberts et al (Harvard)
40	Aello Peak (**) (Twaharpies)	St. Elias	883	716	4403	FA 1967	FA Benton, Boulton, Hagihara, Matsumoto, McBee, Ono, Randall, Staley
41	Cook	St. Elias	850	713	4194	FA 1953	FA T Kelley, R McGowan, T Miller, F Mohling
42	Grand Teton	Teton	708	708	4197	FA 1898 FS 1931	FA W Owen, F Spalding, J Shive, F Peterson FS G Exum
43	Dickey	Alaska	790	702	2909	FA 1955 FWA 1979	FA D Fisher, B Washburn FWA 1979 R Cowles, B Okonek
44	Stupendous Mountain	Bella Coola Region	753	698	2682	FA ???	FA ???
45	Tusk Peak	Rockies	704	693	3360	FA 1927	FA J DeLaittre, W MacLaurin, A Ostheimer
46	Goodsir South Tower	Rockies	700	693	3562	FA 1903	FA C Fay, H Parker, C Hasler, C Kaufmann
47	Lituya Mountain	St. Elias	950	691	3634	FA 1962	FA S Arighi, D Bohn, D Chappelear, H Flachsmann, A Maki, M Mushkin, L Nielsen
48	Miller	St. Elias	715	690	3266	FA 1996	FA C Sassara, R Homberger, R Ruesh, P Claus, C Buhler
49	Kshwan Mountain	Coast	684	684	2240	FA ???	FA ???
50	Mount Judge Howay	Garibaldi Ranges	680	680	2262	FA ???	FA ???

(*) General Note: the Spire Measure of a peak is calculated from a reference point on the peak which may not be the main (highest) summit. Instead the reference point is chosen to give the best SM, i.e. it is the point on the peak with the "most impressive view." It is also usually a harder climb than the main summit. In the following cases this best reference point is quite different from the main summit:

Rainier: Liberty Cap is the Northernmost peak on the broad top of Rainier. It is fairly pointy and stands atop the Willis Wall (the premier alpine North Face in the lower 48) and the Sunset Amphitheater, also a steep face. (In the picture, it is the apparent summit.) By contrast Columbia Crest, the main summit, is gentle and sits well away from any steep face.
The North (Main) Peak of Hozomeen is slightly higher than the South Peak. However the South Peak is significantly steeper; in fact it has the steepest North Face of any peak in the Northwest. In the picture, taken from the SSW, the South Peak is on the right; the steep North Face is hidden.
For Mount Spurr the best reference point is P9100+, about 6km NE of the main summit. It is quite a bit lower than the main summit but is much steeper. In the picture I believe it is the sharp peak on the right.

In some of these cases I have given ascent data for both the main peak and for the optimal reference point.

There are a few other cases in the table where the best reference point is not exactly at the main summit, but is not far away, and I have not made any special notation of these.

(***) Note on Mt. Vancouver: the summit (and optimal reference point) of Vancouver is entirely within Canada. The nearby border summit is called "Good Neighbor Peak."

SOURCES/ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

See the Main Spire Page for general acknowledgements. The Canadian CDED data and the online BC basemap were very useful for the Canadian peaks.

Much of the ascent data is from the American Alpine Journal. I got great information from the American Alpine Club Library, where they used the AAJ, the Canadian Alpine Journal, and the book Alaska : A Climbing Guide by Michael Wood and Colby Coombs, published by Mountaineers Books in 2001.
For the Canadian peaks, most of the ascent data is from www.bivouac.com, the Canadian Mountaineering Encyclopedia.

The books High Alaska by Jonathan Waterman and Mt. McKinley by Fred Beckey were quite helpful, as was personal communication from Steve Gruhn. I also found a lot of information on www.skimountaineer.com and www.mcak.org (the Mountaineering Club of Alaska site).

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Any comments or questions are very welcome:

metzler (at) aa (dot) edu